To Brussels and Beyond—
and Back

For a number of reasons, this page is unlike most of the others on this site. Most of the description was written by Judy, not by me, although I do chime in at the end. On top of that, Judy wrote the description twenty-seven years ago, but we just this week (early September, 2020) ran across her hand-written pages. Finally, though we usually make plans ahead of time, have reservations confirmed, do all the “proper” preparations for an overseas trip, we made this journey on a whim. And to take advantage of a sale, if you will.

You see, we were sitting on the deck of our house on Greensboro Road one Saturday, enjoying some nice morning sunshine, when Judy ran across a newspaper ad for special vacation rates to Belgium. For a ridiculously low price, we could get a round-trip flight to Brussels, three nights in the Hilton, and a rental car for three days. The time frame looked good. We could leave right after the First Stage Players production of Hello Dolly, enjoy the trip, and get back home in time to start the school year. And we’d “save money” on the trip, so we could actually stay longer than three nights. What could be better, right?

We planned on getting to Brussels, telling the rental car people we’d like to pay for an additional week, and telling the hotel we would split the three nights. We would stay for two nights at the beginning of the trip, go away for a week, and take the third night at the end of the trip. That’s actually what we ended up doing, but there were a few surprises in store for us along the way.

 

Judy’s Journal: The Adventures

Photos

Stay tuned, They’ll be here some day.

Belgium, Part One

As though they couldn’t wait to be free and on their own, the girls fairly dumped us out at the B;ham Airport, hugged us, and drove off! We schlepped the luggage to Delta, booked it through to Brussels and waited. After an hour or so we were off–free, too, to Atlanta. Fortunately Jim checked on the baggage there or it would have awaited our return. Within two or three house, we and the luggage were off to Belgium.

For days we’d had no rain, but as we left Atlanta the rain came, and with it bumpy flights, so we were anticipating rough travel with little or no service. Fortunately, once we climbed into what just have been the outer layer of earth’s atmosphere things quieted down and the flight preceded normally–as flights go. Sabina was using a Delta plane, and we enjoyed the large movie screens tracking all sorts of vital information: altitude, time at location, time of arrival, and pictorially over an earth map where the plane was. I slept after the meal, off and on, throughout the flight. We were in comfortable seats Jim next to a window so–although sometimes a bit bumpy–the flight passed better than some I’ve made.

Arrival in Brussels, a long wait for luggage; the trip to Central Gare on train with luggage was made in somewhat of a stupor I’m sure.–then a taxi to the Hilton–oppulance for two bedraggled and weary travelers. But, determined and valiant, we did not succumb to a nap, but set out on foot to the Centre and walked miles—so it seemed. I barely remembered what I’d seen even immediately afterward. We at lunch before the walk at a nearby cafe, Le Nimrod, where we had croque m’sieurs complete with a haughty Hercule Poirot-mustachioed waiter.For supper we found a restaurant close where JC had mussels.

Day 2 we headed for Brugge with our VW Golf. Cute car, just right for us. Brugge/Bruges was beautiful with its canals and tall narrow close buildings. An adventure to drive so fast, clearly marked roads and as always inner city parking and quickly available maps and routes. Back to Brussels and a fight to stay awake until 10 or so.

Little did we know that as we were preparing to perform the last show of Hello Dolly the King of Belgium died. Nor did we fathom the implications of our staying at the Hilton during the weekend of his funeral the following Saturday. All the world dignitaries would also stay there. The Hotel entrance was guarded by police with automatic weapons, motorcycle police and men with walkie-talkies. We jauntily sauntered into and out of the lobby in our suitcase-crumpled clothes rubbing shoulders with heads of state from who knows where. Gerald Ford, Queen and Kings, Ministers, and flunkies from countries across the world were in Brussels.

We decided to get out of Dodge and drive to France for breakfast Saturday, since all of Brussels would be closed for the funeral. Choosing the closest most interesting French town, we headed for Lille, France.

We had a good day and headed “home” to find we couldn’t enter the Hilton parking. After talking with a very polite Belgium police officer who told us we couldn’t get into parking “for the moment” because of official limousines and entourages, we circled the city, returned to the hotel, and another policeman let us pull up with the numerous Mercedes until the signaled us to pull ahead and enter the below-ground parking. We had to signal a motorcycle police out of the way and drive through the throngs of bystanders who had circled the drive watching for bigwigs. I wanted to give an official Miss Alabama wave but refrained.

We escaped through the teeming lobby and hid in our room. We watched TV (CNN) and saw the funeral and the crowds of common folk and dignitaries with whom we’d dealt during the day.

 

 

Luxembourg

Sunday we were glad to depart Belgium and head for Luxembourg.At the i [Tourist information] we found and secured a hotel. After exploring the city we headed for Anna et Jean’s Hotel, easily found. Quaint little hotel, meager room but sufficient. Lots of street noises during the night. We awoke, bathed, dressed and packed to find we were the only humans about. The place was deserted!
Across the street at the service station Jim found the address of Anna et Jean two houses down. He knocked on her door and she said she was “on her way.” Minutes later, almost 8:30, she arrived to serve us coffee and rolls. We could have disappeared and she would never have known!
We were dismayed and the bed had been, shall we say, uncomfortable so we weren’t in the best mood. However, we laughed and added it to the list of adventures.

Moselle Vineyards

Heading out of Luxembourg, we drove [along the Moselle toward] Strassbourg. On the way I had determined we would stop at a wine maker along the Moselle and we arrived at Grevemacher just as they closed for mid-day. Jim said we couldn’t stay so we drove on slowly and waited till the vintner St. Martin Cave opened again at 2:00. We toured the champagne cave and heard, didn’t catch a lot, of the process in French and German. Bought two bottles.

Before that we took a chance turn to the Koppchen Chapel high in the Vineyards overlooking Wormeldange where we had our picnic lunch. What a treat! Unexpected and pleasurable adventure unplanned and totally memorable. The wine we later bought at St. Martin was grown there!

Entering Strassbourg we had no idea of where to stay but it was close to 5:00. In the crowded streets toward the centre a boy handed us a brochure for the Hotel Hanong advertising a special August rate. Fate. It looked good; we got there, found a parking place so we could inquire–fate–and stayed in a lovely old Hotel. Nice room–not much desire or interest in the city so we settled in. It was Jim’s birthday and he wanted choucroute garni–fate–the ohotel restaurant had it prepared that night so we ate there. I had Rosso buccco, an expensive but good meal.

Liechenstein

We awoke to rain!

Knowing mountains were ahead of us, we fortified ourselves with the hotel breakfast and set out for the day’s drive to Liechtenstein. Mountains, tunnels, rain and speedy drivers were the day’s adventures.

Finally after the toll roads with no local coinage ($25.00 US) we arrived in Vaduz. The smallest country, the most touristy city–but lovely, lovely scenery had distracted us from the bleak day. In the rain we bought an umbrella, stamps from Liechtenstein, and supper sandwiches. We found a peaceful hotel (from the i in Vaduz) in Schaan, a small village high in the Alps where peacefulness promised a quite sleep in the fabled Liechtenstein, where I’d always wanted to visit. The room has a good view, a classical music radio–no TV–and down duvets, which promise the first totally stress free night of the trip. 

For Sara: we walked around the hotel and just outside our window we have escargot on the hoof. Cute snail we’ve watched. This beautiful. The way a vacation should be. Peace. Quiet. Comfort.

We awoke to a much clearer day, and the view all around was beautiful. After our long and quiet rest on the most comfortable beds and under duvets of down, we were ready! At breakfast we asked about locally made items and the innkeeper was very helpful, mentioning the pottery made in Liechtenstein. We drove to the next town to see the factory, but it was closed for vacation. We had spotted a pottery shop in Vaduz that had several bells (locally made) so we headed back to buy one. We also looked at the Cathedral and saw a monument to the composer Rheinberger, a local son.

Dinkelsbühl

Leaving the country about 11:00, we drove into Austria, then on to Germany, detouring to get a glimpse of the Bodensee–crowded unbelievably with tourists. Having no coin of the realm, we then detoured to Ulm to cash some dollars and drove on to Dingelsbühl. We stopped for our usual daily picnic in a park.

We arrived about 4:30 and sought the i for help with a hotel. Once again luck or fate was ours and we found the Goldenes Lamm. Our room is just above the golden lamb on the front of the Hotel. Lovely room once again, quiet, with beds just like last night.

As we walked the town we spotted the type of curtains I looked all over Brussels for. Will get them tomorrow. Fate.

Supper at the hotel was fried pork chops and French fries and beer. Oh, and a very good salad. Just what we needed. Now a good night’s sleep before our drive to Bamberg and north toward Leipzig.