Zion National Park

June 17

We left Bryce Canyon and started toward Zion National Park, and when we did, the whole nature of travel changed. Before we got to the park entrance, we entered the canyon and just kept going down. Switchbacks, narrow two-lane road, a short tunnel, and then a long tunnel. Both tunnels carved out of the rock walls of the canyon long before anyone thought big tour buses would be going through them. Tunnels so narrow two of those behemoths couldn’t travel through them in opposite directions without scraping a foot or so of steel skin off of the sides of each one. At least there’s a handy-dandy system of traffic lights to tell you to stop if there’s already a bus in the tunnel when you reach the entrance. The cliffs we drove beside and through were sheer thousand-foot drops. Or more! We were definitely not in Kansas; I hear it’s flat.

Once we reached the canyon floor and entered the park, we drove to the Lodge and saw what has to be one of the most striking settings in the whole National Park system. Flat space maybe 100 yards or more wide, sheer cliffs behind the Lodge and across a green lawn, tall cottonwoods, a stream running through the valley, and wildlife just strolling through the scene like they belonged there. We watched a wild turkey wander up and peck around the lawn a bit. While we were waiting for a table at dinner, we had time to wander around and get a few photos. Peaceful place. Restful. After dinner we saw three very tame mule deer grazing on the lawn without paying any attention to the chattering humans. Smart deer.

We were on the ground floor of one of the newer buildings, built a lot like an outside corridor 1950s motel. Off the little back deck, there’s probably less than ten yards to the foot of that big cliff that soars up behind the lodge. Crazy.

Judy stayed out longer than I did and got back to the room around 10:00. She had been close by and had helped fold the flag at sunset. Then she saw a fox, walking through the lawn. I went back out with her to the front of the lodge, and we sat and watched the deer graze as the light of the full moon slid down the face of the cliff opposite the lodge. While we were sitting on a bench in the dark, the fox came back, quietly slinking along, less tame than the deer, but not skittish or afraid of the people so long as they didn’t threaten.

June 18

We got up early, packed our bags and left them outside the room, then enjoyed the breakfast buffet. I then took off, walking across the lawn, over the river and onto the trail to the Emerald Pools. Very nice walk, up hill a little. I saw some interesting birds I couldn’t identify and some nice views before I got to the first pool. Life intervened a bit, so I turned around and got back to the Lodge in a hurry, to spend a little time alone. I never made it to the second and third pools, so now I have an excuse to go back! Later, we took the tram ride up the canyon. This was sort of a guided tour through some beautiful country — all within the walls of the canyon.

This place is absolutely beautiful this time of year, and the Park amenities are the best. The rooms are comfortable, and there’s no TV because that would be not only an intrusion but completely unnecessary. The place itself offers one stunning view after another, and there a free shuttle to all sorts of places on the property. For some there are difficult hiking trails available, and for people like us, there are some nice, easy trails. I call those walking trails, because it’s very much like walking through a well-manicured, but rustic looking, park. And the food here is good, something really important when you’re away from home.

Given our next stop on this tour, Las Vegas, I would have much preferred to stay here for the next two days. Except for the helicopter ride. Glad I didn’t miss that.