Alnmouth and Alnwick

These were two places we’d never heard of before the trip—two places where we had a great time. But first–

After a short, pleasant flight in the rain on Ryanair to Edinburgh, we picked up our “new” van, noticed it was manual transmission, asked for automatic and got yet another minivan. A “people mover.” We had no trouble getting to Craigmore B&B, run by a retired couple in their home.We walked several blocks to a bar for supper. Sitting in their living room, enjoying a comfy chair. Several messages back and forth with KC, Sara and Mark today. Excited to be seeing them tomorrow. We’ll probably stop at Rosslyn chapel on the way to Alnmouth to visit Kelly and Val.

Thursday, July 13

The short version: Waited at airport for only three hours!–plane was late. Drove to Alnmouth. Walked the beach. Had a great time; fabulous dinner. Beautifully remodeled house, garden, cottage.

The truth: Breakfast at Craigmore was a delight. Nice china, good food, pleasant company. Talked with a couple from Sweden who were in the other bedroom. Very nice people, doing Scotland but not driving. We got to the airport with only one wrong turn–went past the exit. Parked in the two-hour tower, then found the plane was late. I moved the car after 90 minutes, then got the same convenient space on re-entering. While we waited, we got directions to the Edinburgh hotel for later, talked to a man from Atlanta who has hired a car and driver for his family’s tour, and finally greeted the three travelers on their arrival.

We drove on toward Alnmouth and made only two wrong turns. The drive was motorway and good A-roads for the most part, but the final 4 or 5 miles were the twisty narrow lanes we saw in Ireland. I screamed “shit” only once.

The house is really neat, Val is a delight, and we had a great time. I called Crum so Val could hear her accent. We had drinks and dinner in the garden and made plans for the next day. Kelly and I walked up to “the shop,” and I bought a Scotch Egg for Judy. I slept like a dead man!

Friday, July 14

Wonderful breakfast in the garden–fresh fruit, yogurt, sausages and bread. Then we spent the day in Alnwick–pronounced “Annick.”

Alnwick has been the home of the Earls, Dukes, and Duchesses of Northumberland for over 400 years–maybe 700 years. The present duchess (Jane) has “done the right thing,” according to Val.She has opened the state rooms to the public even though the family is currently in residence–or still in residence. By charging admission Duchess Jane has made the castle an income producer instead of a liability. The first thing we saw was a children’s center, where kids were being dressed as Medieval pages or ladies. Sara and KC tried the stocks, and Val and Sara played the sword fighting kids’ game. The whole area was cute and well done.

The place is huge! The “let’s learn to fly a broom” scene in the first Harry Potter movie was filed here, and we watched a demonstration of falconry (using owls and an eagle) in that area in the early afternoon. The interiors were updated in the 18th century and again in the 1860s. The 10th-century stuff remains, and it’s stunning. Italian Renaissance style–gilt everywhere, no flat places on wall or ceiling. The library is their living room, and there was not only a bar set up between two library tables but also a fine-looking foosball table as well. [2020 note: If you’ve seen Downton Abbey you’ve seen this library, when the family visited the future in-laws. Exterior and interior shots were made here. I’d bet the foosball table was behind the screens at the end of the room.] The dining room was being re-done, but the photographs are beautiful. Carved wooden ceiling without gilt in there. One of the books on display was a military guide for the Spanish Inquisition. A docent told me they also have Anne Boleyn’s prayer book. Altogether a memorable visit to a real castle.

Then we had lunch in the Treehouse, a restaurant on the grounds of the Alnwick Gardens–another Duchess Jane enterprise. The gardens were extensive, family friendly, and still being developed and expanded. The rose garden was just past full bloom, and the ornamental garden even later. Still saw stunning delphiniums there. We all enjoyed the Poison Garden tour, and it turns out that a lot of our plants are poisonous–even Rosemary in concentration.

We drove back to Val’s, then went out to a fish and chips shop in amble. Fed the gulls at the harbor, looked at boats, then headed back for a few drinks before bed.

Val is a hoot! [Clarification: Val is Val MacDermid, a respected author of crime novels.] Smart woman! House stuffed full of books.

From Judy: Friday we all visited Alnwick Castle, home of the current Duchess of Northumberland and family. Great castle, really lived in. Saw birds of prey demonstration. KC got to hold one on her arm with the other “children.” The gardens were spectacular. We ate lunch in the “Treehouse.” Supper was fish and chips in paper eaten in the car at the harbor.

Saturday, July 15

Breakfast 

Kelly Smith and Val McDermid were great hosts for our visit, putting us up in their home and taking us around the area. We thoroughly enjoyed getting to tour the local castle, home of the Duchess of Northumberland and the site of several scenes in Harry Potter movies. After lunch in the Treehouse Cafe, we were brought back to earth with a visit to the Alnwick Gardens.

After two nights in Alnmouth and enjoying fun in Alnwick, we headed out for Scotland, starting with Rosslyn and Stirling.