J&J Circle the British Isles

Ring of Kerry

Friday, June 30

Great ride! Fun, informative driver. [We saw] hedges of fuchsia, Foxglove and heather in bloom. “Weeds with huge tropical-looking leaves—like ragged nasturtiums crossed with dandelions, but almost three feet across— called Gonnera—or something like that.  The thatched cottages of the reconstructed bog village (showing 19th century life) looked familiar, with lots of old farm equipment lying around, à la Cook Hill.

Lunch was lamb stew at a restaurant looking over Kenmare Bay (River) at 3:30 PM! We’ll have only a snack in the room tonight. Very much fun. We saw a group from the Cotswolds in England as we passed through Sneem for a brief stop. Fun.

Our traveling group was good. 11 people at the start in a 12-13 passenger van. Two got off south of Killarney to walk back to Kenmare. Twenty miles.

The “Singing bus driver” —Deklun?—was really a great guide. Only sang a few times.—humorous songs. Great views of interior valleys, lakes of Killarney, bays and Atlantic coast. Saw Dingle peninsula from Kerry peninsula. Saw Skellig Islands through the mist.. Was Valentia—the “slate” island. Saw the clear shot to North America.

Bak in Kenmare, we had a snack supper in the room, then walked to the Kenmare stone circle. Not well cared for—needed mowing. Sort of small, actually. We saw the Morris dancers again on the square in Kenmare. Those guys get around! Inter-generational group—ages ca. 20s to 60s. In Sneem a fiddler played; in Kenmare an accordion. The Dance with sticks looked real polite compared to Brazil!

Here’s a video of the Morris dancers.

I have no idea how that video will show up on different browsers on different operating systems. Let me know if it doesn’t work for you. I’ll send you a copy. 😉

6-30-06

Today’s breakfast, after a great night’s sleep, was quite unique. We selected our breakfast from the menu last night—a choice of juices, cereals, mains—quite a variety in each category. I chose cranberry juice, porridge with whiskey cream and (in an effort to try new things) poached pear on homemade white toast with Cashel blue cheese. What was I thinking? Not the best ever, but I had to try it. Tomorrow I’m going back to the full Irish (plus porridge with whiskey cream).

Somewhere in County Kerry

​Today we boarded a 15 passenger van to see the Ring of Kerry. Our driver was Declan, the singing bus driver(!). He only sang three times, little Irish ditties , but even though he had a pleasant voice, we didn’t buy his CD. This all-day journey was good, but not worth all the hype in my opinion. Seeing this unique view of Ireland, rough craggy mountains and gorgeous views of Dingle Bay and the Atlantic Coast. I’m so glad we didn’t drive it. The curvy mountain roads would have been hard enough, but worse we wouldn’t have known a thing about what we were seeing. The driver talked almost the whole time. We had plenty of stops for pictures, Irish coffee, lunch and potty breaks. Very nice.

At one break, the last of the day, we climbed off the bus and saw 10 or 12 men dressed in white with colorful bells strapped to their legs, colorful hats and belts. We were curious, but didn’t stare. As s is a contest sponsored by several businesses for towns all over Ireland.  were about to leave again, they assembled in the middle of the street and began to dance, waving white hankies in their hands. One played a fiddle for the dancers. Turns out it was a Morris group—Morris was an ancient ritual dance for men only, very intricate. The group is traveling southern Ireland, and we are going out later tonight to see them here in Kenmare.

This small town isa several times winner of the Tidy Towns award. Tidy Towns is a contest sponsored by several businesses for towns all over Ireland. It is obviously a bid deal, because winning towns proclaim themselves, and other towns post ways to become a Tidy Town. Ireland is one of the cleanest places—no litter on streets (except Dublin, and maybe other “cities”). Lots of morning sweeping and washing streets.

Driving on the Left—Again

Saturday, July 1

“Rainy. Not going to do much today.”

And we didn’t.

I walked around a while in the morning. Stopped in Holy Cross church, but they were preparing for a funeral. The coffin was there in the center aisle, draped in white, with a bible and a flower on it. I didn’t talk to the nun, who was getting things ready. I just took a picture of the Telford (186_?) and left. Also stopped at Mary’s Well. Not worth the walk.

Later, we both walked through the town again, then hit the car to drive to Glenngarigg and from there to the Bantry house. That was the plan, anyway.

​Getting to Glengarriff, across the Beara peninsula, was like driving on Mull so far as the scenery was concerned. But, although there were two lanes on the roads (except where there was a bit of wash-out along the sides), this time we went up and over the mountains, along the road that teetered along the crest of a ridge, through 19-century hand-carved tunnels, and out the other side, down the hills to Glengariff. We stopped for a break, had a dessert snack, and went back to Kenmare. Driving there was too much to take, but we had to go back over the same mountain pathway. I had to do it while I still had the nerve.

Dinner was fish & chips at the bridge bar, after the world cup game. (England lost.) Noisy people in the street didn’t slow me down. I slept.

7-1-16

This was a rainy day, so I spent a good part of the morning reading in the room, maybe napping, just catching up on some down time.

Looking across the fields

​We struck out after lunch to drive across the top of the Beara peninsula. Zykes! Narrow roads across and through (literally) the high rocky mountains. Glorious views but scary roads. We had a snack in the Glengariff village and decided to head back home. Reverse scary drive = another scary drive, but we made it.

Fish & chips for supper. We walked to the stone circle, largest in that part of Ireland, and walked among the stones, totally unprotected from people as are most of these ancient places. But surprisingly, no graffiti or damage.

Home for the night.

Roadside attraction

Tralee and Blennerville

Sunday, July 2

After breakfast, off around 9:00 for a pleasant drive to Killarney and then on to Tralee. Stopped for gas and to wash the car. Then into center of town, looking for the Tourist Office.

Wow. Parked in the street in front of the Kerry County Museum and found we were in the middle of a huge park, next to a stunning rose farden (part of the park). Really enjoyed walking around. Actually saw “the” rose of Tralee, which wasn’t nearly as striking as some of the others. Then a walk through the ‘Medieval Experience’ in the Museum,. Not too great, and we moved fast to stay ahead of a cub scout troop.

After that we drove to Blennerville, to see the restored windmill. Seeing the different gears, and the way the whole thing worked was much better than the Medieval exhibit. At least it was real, and we coult climb ladders to see each level of the works.

7-02-06

Eggs with salmon for breakfast and we left Kenmare.

Our drive today was pleasant. First to Tralee where we went to the Rose Garden in the denter of the tiry, with acres of roses of every color imaginable, including purple. We walked for a long while admiring the multitudinous rose bushes in full bloom then went to a “Medieval Experience,” a display lf life in medieval Ireland.

We then drove two kilometers to Blennerville to see a windmill used in the 1800s to grind grain.

Back on the road, headed for Bunratty.