J&J Circle the British Isles

More of County Clare
Cliffs of Moher, Doolin, Inisheer

Wednesday, July 5

We did laundry last night– it still isn’t dry at 6:00 tonight. Might be fun in the car tomorrow! However, we did run across a place in doolin that will wash fluff and fold while we go to Inisheer, so tomorrow all the other stuff get taken care of. But–I’m ahead of myself.

Breakfast here is a buffet. First hash browns I’ve seen. Then up and out toward the Cliffs. Nice drive–started out going through a couple of villages, following the coast road toward Doolin, to catch a cruise for the Cliffs of Moher. Stopped at the Cliffs Visitors Center and had a ball. Steep walk up at first, then a more reasonable pitch. Great views! See the photos!

I talked to a human, who made the reservations for our cruise and gave directions on getting there. She directed us along the coase road! Lovely views, scary road. Here directions: “Turn left at the Clare Jam sign, then after you pass the castle and cross the bridge, turn left on Fisthers Street, go past Gus O’Connors Pub to the Pier.” Wow. Can’t begin to describe that drove. Of course, my ears perked up at “Gus O’Connor’s,” but …

We got there early, bought our tickets, and walked around the area–more limestone pavement–and generally chilled. Judy “worked on my tan.” The cruise was great! Nice kids who talked to people about the birds. One helped Judy spot a puffin. and the birds were fabulous! A great hour that I thought was all that was needed for a great day.

But wait–there’s more. After the cruise, we went to the Doolin Design Centre, stopped and found out about Laundry, sent an e-mail or two,, then went back to the strip with Gus O’Connor’s. Judy shopped around, while I went to the Music Center, told the human what I was interested in, asked for her recommendations, and spent too much money on CDs.

We had planned on lunch at gud O’Connors, and at 3:00 it seemed to be a good idea to eat outside. But I jsut had to see inside, so we walked in to the old main room, with the fireplace. Lo and behold, there were two guys, pipe and accordion, talking to some other Americans, and willing to talk and play. Turns out they were 2/3 of “Tuatha,” in the area for the school at Miltown Malbay, and just killing time–and getting from drinks and food, of course. Fun time. And while I was in the music/CD store, Judy had spotted the people outside having a cold seafood platter. We had said earlier we should eat seafood, and it was great. We shared a platter, and it was plenty. 

Stopped at the ATM and the Super Valu on the way back to load up an “Aran picnic” for our trip tomorrow. Walked around the Falls for some pix. Altogether a beautiful day–unplanned for.

7-7-06

Wednesday the 5th we headed for the Cliffs of Moher. We stopped at Doolin design center then walked up to the Cliffs. Jim walked to top and I viewed from halfway, really spectacular.

We took a boat tour on this brightest and warmest day. Working on my tan, I actually burned myself wearing a sleeveless top and standing on the top deck in the sun and wind.

The boat stopped so we could see all the birds that inhabit the cliffs. My jaw kept dropping at the incredible beauty and all the water fowl.

I don’t think pictures could do it justice, but we snapped away.

Aran Islands: Inisheer

Thursday, July 6

Yin and Yang, you know? Balance in all things Today balanced yesterday.

It rained. We got to Doolin real early, left the laundry, then had to wait an hour in the rain before the boat left for Inishere. I got ‘clammy’ in the very rough crossing, fell into a lady trying to get to the air, and in general felt lousy. The pony trap driver/guide we had wasn’t great. It was cloudy, windy and occasionally rainy. Our planned picnic wasn’t. I stayed outside on the trip back, but—a big wave, and I stumbled into the same lady!

The laundry had not folded things neatly at all, and one of my shirts had faded all over everything.

We drove to Miltown Malbay for music, but WOW too crowded to park within two km. of the town–after three times through.

Back at hotel, drinking Jameson’s. 

7-6-06

Thursday we went on another boat to Inisheer, the smallest of the Aran Islands. Unfortunately, the weather was horrible. Jim was almost sick as the boat pitched and rolled–really very frightening. This small island has nothing, repeat nothing to do on it.

We took a pony cart ride around part of the island to see the fresh water lake in the middle and a rusted ship hull from a sreck in the 1960s. We then climbed to the tip-top to see the castle ruins. Nearly died on the steep assent.

The island has three pubs, sort of, and because it was cold and rainy we stopped for a bolw of hot soup. We ended up sitting on the pier reading our books for the last hour. The ride back was just as rough. I continued reading but Jim had to stand outside.

Afterward we drove to a small town nearby where there was an Irish music festival, but after driving through the town several times and finding no parking, we headed home. 

I went to bed early–tired and disgruntled at the miserable day. Not feeling top-notch I feared the flu.